Review: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour Le Soir

Notes: Infusion of benzoin from Siam, cumin, ylang-ylang, Bulgarian and Iranian rose honey, incense absolute, Atlas cedarwood and sandalwood.

Fresh from absorbing the gratuitous nudity and riveting plot of the abstract cult classic The Dreamers, where Academy Award®-winning director Bernardo Bertolucci portrayed an erotic tale of three young film lovers brought together by their passion for movies and each other; I couldn’t help but draw some parallels between Absolue pour le soir and this cinematic master piece, in which they both portray an engaging and seductive cast of characters, intertwined with a liberal dose of decadent Parisian eroticism.

Arguably one of the best releases (if not the best) of 2010, criminally talented perfumer Francis Kurkdjian took an inspired departure from his usual minimalist and elegantly understated style, which forgive my heathenism (cue elevator music) was starting to stray a little too much towards safe and accessible territory.

                                                                                                                                                                                               (This is what Eva Greens character Isabelle must have smelled like)*

 

Rich, opulent and deliciously decadent with uninhibited carnal sensuality; As with most of my favorite scents, it’s polarizing in that you will either swoon with exotic bliss, or recoil grimacing in sheer horror, questioning the sanity of anybody with enough reckless abandon to want to smell like this on purpose. I fall firmly into the former category, but would advise those to not buy into the hyperbole and unwarranted conjecture, after all this is not Secretions Magnifiques darling.

Captivating and immediately apparent is despite the seemingly out of character stylistic detour, the composition manages to maintain FK’s elegance and smooth seamless blending, maintaining the integrity and house signatures which Mr. Kurkdjian is renowned for. Bravo…..

(Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian)*

APLS (a scent for the evening) opens bestially sweet, in parted by a beautifully rendered accord of warm honey and resinous benzoin, underpinned with a rapturously camphoraceous Atlas-cedarwood and cumin. There is no foreplay here, the composition for the most part stays dense and direct, leaning towards the realm of linear. After the fervent and tumultuous start, the scent becomes enriched with an enchanting floral blend of ylang-ylang and Iranian rose, with some deft touches of incense, adding a further characteristic depth and ethereal quality.

Always voluptuous, bestowing the wearer with a warm and sophisticated glowing aura, there is a enough challenge to afford the fragrance connoisseur a chance to revel in the scents slightly uriness glory, wearing it like a sophisticated badge of pride.

For the most part the journey is rather linear, as the bestial shadow slowly unwinds and loses it’s fangs; stripping down to something more civilized, akin to it’s predecessor Cologne pour le soir. A kissing cousin to both Musc Ravageur and Muscs Koublai Khan, in which although vastly different from each other, they share a common theme and story. Therefor if you’re a fan of the latter, then chances are you’re going to revel in this one. Another prime example of a gender neutral fragrance, which works equally well on either sex. All in all another one for mandatory testing, highly recommended.

Rating: 9/10
Longevity: 9/10
Projection: 8/10
Occasion: Semi-formal, Formal, Romantic.

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3 responses to “Review: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour Le Soir

  1. I really need to try this again and wear it properly – I’m all up for skanky fragrances, but the sour intensity of this one was too much the first time I tried it – I do however keep giving it a passing sniff when I see it. I KNOW I’ll have a bottle sooner or later whether I like it or not, I think that’s the thing, I want to LOVE it but I don’t, just gotta accept the “like” :’)
    Nice write up!

  2. Pingback: Where to start? Part 5 (10 Modern niche classics) |

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