Review: Helmut Lang Cuiron

Notes: plum, “fluid” leather, fresh notes, “sensual” leather, suede notes, “noble” leather.

A revered cult-classic, one which is rightfully mourned throughout the fragrance community and one rightfully deserving of its accolades. Personally I have to admit, I’m rather late to the Cuiron party, haphazardly sampling it recently, knowing full well of its sacristy due to its almost criminal discontinuation (not to mention exuberant prices). Opening with a near translucent and opaque designer suede note on top of crisp effervescent citrus top notes (plum and mandarin). Simple, supple and captivating, I’m hooked already.

A reference leather in its own right, but far be it from the territory of bold classical icons such as Cuir de Russie, Knize Ten and Bandit. But rather pertaining to the realms of stark modern minimalism, made up on bone dry structures (whilst maintaining an air of class and luxury). More notably with all the edges rounded off to maintain a seamless, clean, minimalistic and plush composition, akin to a modern art-deco piece of furniture.

Sprinkles of pepper and some minor hints of a very subtle tobacco add some feint counterpoints, to what would be after the dispersion of the top-notes, a quite stark and nondescript suede/leather. Despite the supposed inclusion of a variety of different leather accords, I find the contrast between them rather unremarkable to comment on any real notable differences. Evolution is minimal, if not entirely linear, with a slightly powdery and squeaky clean musk adding some depth and support to the base.

At the best of times, it can be sometimes difficult to wax lyrical about a particular fragrance, when it’s portrayed with an understated minimalistic elegance. Yet on the other hand, it’s sometimes best to just revere in what can not be said.

Rating: 8/10
Longevity: 7/10
Projection: 7/10
Occasion: Casual, Semi-formal